| Tanis Gray - Interview |
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| Written by Barbara Rottman |
Tanis Gray is a well-known name in knitting circles, not only because she served as Yarn Editor for Vogue Knitting magazine for four years, but also because she’s developed patterns for several yarn manufacturers including Be Sweet, Artyarns and Alchemy. Her design work has been featured in many knitting books, as well as Vogue Knitting, Knit Simple, Knit.1, and Martha Stewart Living magazines. She is now happy to present sixty new hat, scarf and mitten designs in her new book, 60 Quick Knits featuring Cascade 220 yarn.
Tanis has been knitting since age 8 when her mother was working on a sweater for her. Inspired by her mother’s hobby, Tanis to want to lean to knit, too. She says she’ll never forget the local shop owner in the small New Hampshire town who helped her and her mom improve their skills, treating Tanis as an adult and passing along her knowledge. From about age 10 to 20, Tanis knit almost exclusively mittens.
Knitting is an activity she still pursues with her mom, and they often think of the shop keeper who encouraged them so many years ago.
When Tanis isn’t teaching knitting workshops or designing for major yarn companies, she enjoys volunteer work and regularly teaches knitting classes at a women's shelter. She led her knit group in the production of Snuggles for local animal shelters.
Knitch Magazine: Many of us were introduced to you when you were the Yarn Editor of Vogue Knitting magazine. That sounds like a fascinating role. Can you tell us what a yarn editor does? Tanis: I’d work with the magazine editor to determine the focus and lay out for each issue. Sometimes the editor would have already decided to feature a color, stitch or theme, and sometimes in those meetings, brilliant ideas would emerge. We planned the lay outs within relatively short time frames so we could be responsive to trends in the market, popular new yarns or patterns, or new ideas. I worked on several publications for Soho publishing and served as the liaison between designers, the yarn companies and the magazines.
Knitch Magazine: What did you like best about being Yarn Editor? Tanis: The process of creation. Working with the yarn companies to select the yarns for the projects, which were then sent to the designers for final knitting. I never lost my sense of wonder when the projects were returned in colorful full size models. It was amazing to see concepts move from sketch and swatch to bundles of yarn to finished projects.”
Knitch: You’ve just released a new book that we think is wonderful. What was your goal for 60 Quick Knits?
Tanis: The book was conceived as a resource for experienced knitters, and as a guide to new knitters. We take beginners through a variety of techniques, preparing them to use the technique they’ve learned in a larger project or to take on a new level of difficulty in their knitting
Tanis: Cascade 220 is one of the most available yarns in the market. Almost every yarn shop or at least one shop in every city seems to carry it, so it’s easily accessible. It seems to be in everyone’s stash, including my own!
Knitch: If you were to do a “blind test," how would you judge good quality in a wool yarn? What should knitters look for?
Tanis: I believe knitters should knit with what they feel comfortable with and they need to know exactly what they’re getting. If you’ve never used a yarn before, try one of the hat, mittens or scarf patterns in 60 Quick Knits to test the yarn. You might spend as much as a month or six weeks working on sweater project, and you need to like the yarn you’re working with. You wouldn’t want to spend all that time and effort using a yarn that splits, breaks or irritates your skin. I evaluate new yarns using a “blind” test by closing my eyes while I touch the yarn with my cheek or rub along my neck. I may even un-ply the strand to judge whether it will split easily as it’s knit, or to determine whether it’s re-knittable should you have to unravel and knit again.
Knitch: What if you’re a new knitter and don’t feel confident about your yarn choices?
Tanis: Ask your shop owner what people have made with a particular yarn, or check Ravelry to find something you like.
Knitch: What should knitters know and consider if they are considering substituting for the yarn used by the designer in the pattern model? Tanis: Follow your color sense to make the project individually yours.
Knitch: Are there any particular fibers you prefer to use?
Tanis: I’ll try any yarn or fiber and I’m intrigued by the new materials -- like the yarns made from milk fiber, shellfish, bamboo, banana silk, and even crushed jade!
Knitch: How did you select the designers who are included in the book?
Tanis: A general call for submissions went to the many designers I’d collaborated with while at Vogue Knitting. Each designer works differently, and the responses were as individual as the designs. Some designers like to work on small projects, some work better with tight deadlines, and some submitted multiple designs.
Knitch: We’re impressed by the range of styles and designs in 60 Quick Knits. What criteria did you use for selecting the designs to be included?
Tanis: Making selections for the book was a little like having a party. All the submissions exceeded my best expectations. We covered a table with swatches and designs, then chose a sampling that included a variety of techniques, skill levels, and style.
Knitch: Is it hard to predict what patterns will be popular? Tanis: Publishers and editors try to keep their ear low to the ground to pick up the trends. I read a lot of blogs, visit Ravelry regularly, and talk to shop owners and customers in yarn shops. Even so, it’s hard to predict with certainty what the next craze will be. Having worked for years at Vogue, I know that it’s impossible to please everyone.
Knitch: Yes, but we all try, don’t we?! We see that you used an expansive array of colors in the book.
Tanis: Yes. Cascade 220 has an extensive color palette. In a book with 60 different designs, I was able to select the best color for each design submission, and still include a wide swath of colors to appeal to every taste. In some cases, the stitch selection dictated the color choice as in the light lavender Bobbles & Cables Cap. For that, I chose a heather yarn that adds color depth without obscuring the pattern. For the Spotted Fair Isle Mittens, I chose a painted yarn to add depth and sparkle to the Fair Isle. Some knitters are drawn by bright colors and others like less splashy shades, while other knitters look for “man colors” in projects to knit for their guys. I wanted to match designs to yarns that will appeal to everyone. For example, the Tweed Watch Cap is brought to life by a surprising touch of color that really sets off the twisted cable motif. This hat, so suitable for a man, would be irresistible for a little girl if knit in pink, green and white. I encourage every knitter to follow their own color sense and experiment with color to see what effects a simple change in color can create.
Tanis: The reception has been terrific. 60 Quick Knits includes a range of projects for knitters to explore that range from simple to fancy. The Bird Cage Mittens are a stunning example of color and technique. Lots of knitters have listed the Mock Cable Wristers as their favorite, but the Tweed Mittens and the Cabled Cuff Mittens are hugely popular, too. There’s something for every level knitter or a project you can find to bring you to the next level. If you’ve never knit with color or knit lace or tried cables, you can find a project that will help you explore these techniques. I hope the book will inspire knitters to try new techniques and to learn as they enjoy knitting these designs.
Knitch: As an editor, you must have some opinions about how patterns should be written. What do you think is important in writing patterns that can be universally understood?
Tanis: Publishers rely on technical editors to format and standardize patterns. I think there are several considerations a designer should take into account.
Pay attention to yarn amounts used in your projects. This is a key to helping others replicate your design. You can weigh finished garments to determine the amount of yarn if it’s knit in one color, but you must pay careful attention to recording the amount of yarn used in Fair Isle and other colorwork.
Record your gauge and knit a swatch. This is vital to writing a good pattern and even designers resist working swatches. I suggest working both a stockinette swatch and pattern stitch swatch, and recording the gauge for each.
Regardless of your personal preference, you should include charts. Even if you prefer knitting from line by line instructions, you should remember that charts are important to some knitters. Designers should submit instructions in both formats.
Don’t focus too much on abbreviations. If anything, overwrite the pattern with full explanations and descriptions. The tech editors will edit if space or other considerations require it.
Knitch: That’s great advice, Tanis. And it’s very timely, too, because TKGA is holding their Knitting Design contest and you suggestions will be helpful to knitters who plan to enter to win the $1000 gift certificate grand prize. Any last advice on pattern writing?
Tanis: Yes. Re-read and proof read for errors. We can be blind to errors, so check your pattern over and then check it again. Read it aloud or have someone else read it aloud to you.
Knitch: What advice do you have for knitters who want to publish their own designs?
Tanis: Do it! Designers need to be willing to take a risk and keep trying, even if rejected. Fashion is unpredictable and what may not have be in favor, will suddenly emerge as the latest trend. There are lots of reasons that publishers can’t accept your submission, many of which are not at all related to your work. Even amazing patterns can be rejected due to space or other unrelated considerations. Don’t be discouraged; seek advice from the many people who want to help or self-publish on Ravelry and ask for feedback from that community. Keep trying and don’t be disheartened by rejection.
Knitch: What exciting new books can look forward to? Tanis: I’ve worked on several new books, and I’m excited about the prospects for all of them. New titles from Soho Publishing include Vogue Knitting Shawls & Wraps, Hattitude, and Stitchionary 5 which is all about lace. I’ve worked on a new book by designer Kristin Nicholas (Color by Kristin), and a book on designing for babies by Debbie Bliss. My next project, a book called All American Yarns & All American Designers, acknowledges the “buy local and support local” trend that’s sweeping the country. This book will profile American yarn companies, from well-known commercial producers to even some “Mom & Pop” producers like the incredibly tiny alpaca farm that produces their own yarn and a small mill that uses wind power to spin their yarn. I attended a lot of local fiber festivals to research the fascinating world of American yarn and designers.
Knitch: What influences or trends do you foresee influencing the world of knitting in the next few years? Tanis: Besides the many exciting new fibers, notions, bags and products that are coming to market, I think the “green revolution” will be one of the biggest influences on knitting in the near future. I predict we’ll continue to see and hear more about sustainable yarns, and that knitters will demand to know more about how these yarns are produced. My husband is a green engineer, so I’ve undoubtedly been influenced by him. I’ve begun to ask, “Is it enough” that we use sustainable fibers? As with the debate over corn-based fuels, I think knitters will turn the discussion to whether or not these products use more energy to produce than they save. It’s not clear yet whether products made in a “green” manner are doing more harm than good, nor is it clear what “green” really means. I think we can look for more questions to be raised as knitters continue to seek yarns produced using sustainable agricultural processes, humane production techniques, and fair trade practices.
Knitch: Is the future bright? Tanis: Yes, I believe so. I see a trend away from consumerism with emphasis on purchasing pricey goods from upscale shops toward activities that renew the human spirit. Instead of spending lots of money and an evening’s meal or entertainment that’s quickly forgotten, I see a growing preference for buying some great yarn that you can enjoy using in a project that you can knit on over a few weeks. Knitting helps us to get through both hard and happy times. Knitters are comforted by the contemplative and meditative time spent knitting that allows time to process all that’s going on in the world. To me, my knitted projects are pages in my journal, helping her to remember the events that were occurring as I knit.
KnitchMagazine would like to thank Tanis for all the time she spent with us. Tanis currently resides in Washington DC with her husband, Roger, pug, Mercury and cat, Igby.
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Tanis Gray is a well-known name in knitting circles, not only because she served as Yarn Editor for
Knitch: 60 Quick Knits features the ubiquitous Cascade 220 yarn. Why this yarn in particular?
Knitch: Have you had any reaction yet to 60 Quick Knits?
