Knitch Magazine

If you’ve ever spent time on a corporate project team, you no doubt heard someone preach this favorite dictum of Steven Covey, the time management consultant, “Begin with the end in mind."

Most of us learned one (or two) basic methods of casting on and never looked back. There are, however, dozens of cast-on techniques with multiple ways of executing each of them. Knitting technique books devote chapters to describing these methods and their applications. Your choice of cast on method will ensure a long wearing edge for your knitting. It can also add decorative flair or set up your knitting for an embellished edge, lace edging, or decorative edging. Make a few gauge swatches and try out different cast on methods to find the one best suited for your project.

By far the most common -- and most versatile -- method of casting on is the two-strand method, often called long-tail cast on. It is strong, sturdy, and complements most knitting. You could knit all your projects and be well satisfied with long-tail casting on. But let’s look a little closer. Have you ever examined your long tail cast on and wondered which should be the “right” or “public” side for your finished project? Examine the two sides closely: the side facing you as you cast on has a row of purl bumps and the back side has a row of knit stitches anchored by a stranded base stitch. If you are knitting flat in reverse stockinette or primarily the purl stitch, your first knitted row after long-tail cast on should be a right side pattern row. On the other hand, if you are working in ribbing, garter stitch or stockinette stitch, the first knitted row will be a wrong side pattern row (unless you are working in the round). Basically, you are matching up the purl bumps of the cast on to the pattern, using the stranded base stitch to form a fine scroll to underline the edge of your knitting. However, if you prefer the un-stranded row as the right side, by all means use that. Be aware of what you are doing, making sure to choose the same public side for the front, back and both sleeves of your sweater.

Sometimes the knitting calls for a temporary base and you don’t want or need a permanent cast on edge. At other times you may not be sure of what kind of edge you want on your sweater, or if you have enough yarn to complete your project. Start by using provisional cast on, knit the garment, and then choose the edge. You can remove the provisional cast on thread to pick up “live” stitches and knit the edge downward. If you are short of yarn, use a contrasting color for hem, neck and cuffs. If you want ribbing, you can decide the amount of ease and length after making your garment. You may not be sure just how long you can make your socks, start with provisional cast on and add the top edges after finishing both socks. By using provisional cast on, the transition from garment to edge will be seamless. Without using provisional cast on, you’d have a permanent ridge between your garment and edge. Planning ahead to use provisional cast on will give you best results. Provisional cast on is also ideal for lace or pattern knitting with a strongly directional pattern. If you want a truly symmetrical feather ‘n fan scarf or stole, start with provisional cast on and knit one half of total length. Remove provisional cast on and pick up stitches working the other half in the opposite direction, being careful to match right side and pattern row. The result with be a beautifully symmetrical stole.

Panic can strike if the pattern calls for casting on stitches at the end of a row or to create buttonholes, but no cast on suggestions are offered by the designer. Depending on the effect you need, several cast on methods are available. Lace edges or softly draped edges call for a loose cast on to match the stretchiness of the knitting. Backward loops work well here. To prevent buttonholes from sagging or to create a firm edge, the cable cast on method is a good choice. If the pattern designer has not recommended a cast on method, you can find advice in one of the many knitting technique books, blogs, or knitting websites. Practice the technique on a swatch until you feel comfortable to execute it in your project.

There are many other design considerations that will affect your choice of cast on edge, and it is well worth taking the time to swatch trying a few cast on techniques. Label and save your swatches for future reference. Consider the yarn, gauge, knitted fabric, and the project you are knitting. You can make the choices to define your knitting by choosing a decorative edging to jazz up plain knitting, using a contrasting color for the cast on edge, or stabilizing a soft lacy scarf with a doubled edge. Remember to begin with the end in mind.