Knitch Magazine

Knitting instructions assume basic knowledge on the part of the knitter, and some even suggest a level of difficulty from beginner to intermediate or advanced. However, patterns that are poorly written or lack basic information can frustrate even advanced knitters. Knitting patterns, like most technical and instructional writing, generally adhere to the same conventions and follow a standard format. If you understand these conventions, you can quickly evaluate a pattern, magazine, or book before investing in a purchase. Knowing how patterns are written can also serve as the basic outline for designing on your own. Let’s examine the parts of patterns:

Photograph

A picture really does say a thousand words, and a good photograph with the pattern helps you to see details of construction, pattern, and fit. Photographs inspire: I’m not sure I will ever knit that child’s helmet hat from the pattern written out by my mother-in-law in 1970, but if a photo were attached, I might have already made several. Many pattern companies will include the size shown in the model; vital information for assessing the amount of ease and other fit details. Maintain a critical eye; study the photograph critically to see what design flaws may be hidden. If your local yarn shop or classroom instructor has a model on display, look closely at the knitting and ask questions about the construction.

Materials List

Typically patterns describe the brand name, product name, weight per skein and number of skeins needed for the project. Knitting magazines often include a photograph of the yarn along with the weight of the yarn, i.e., lace, fingering, sport or DK, worsted, or bulky. Some use a symbol to identify the weight of the yarn (a skein with the number from 1 to 5). Wraps per inch is another way of describing the yarn. Quantity may be shown as yards/meters per skein or for total yards needed. Special notions such as buttons (number and size), zippers or ribbon should be described in detail. Look also for a description of the fiber content of the yarn used in the model. Substituting a different fiber can create a totally different outcome in your project. Study the materials list to get an idea of the cost and care for the garment. If you decide to substitute a different yarn for that featured in the pattern, you will need to consider all these factors to find an equivalent yarn.

Gauge

I once bought a self-published pattern only to realize later that it did not show the gauge. The designer recommended worsted weight yarn, but failed to discuss gauge, so I had to calculate from the size and number of stitches. It is important to know gauge to get the right fit of your garment, but gauge also helps you to know if you will have a fairly firm or loose, draped fabric. This in turn helps you decide if you have chosen the right yarn for your project. Expect hats, mittens, socks and gloves to be knit at a tight gauge while lace will be knit at a looser gauge. Sometimes the gauge swatch uses stockinette stitch and at other times the swatch is knit in pattern. Wash and block your gauge swatch to evaluate how the knitting responds to finishing and adjust as necessary.

Needles

View needle size as a guideline. Designers often use the needle size recommended by the yarn company, but you will need to choose the size needle that gives you the recommended gauge for the fit you want. Keep in mind that you can substitute circular needles for straight needles – just knit back and forth as you would on a straight needle. Circular needles distribute the weight of knitting more across a longer span than straight needles, and you may find it more comfortable to knit an afghan, baby blanket or adult size coat on circular needles. If the garment is knit in the round, you will need circular needles that are smaller than the circumference of your garment. You won’t be able to stretch a child’s sweater with a 24-inch chest measurement around 29-inch circular needles, but you can easily knit a man’s sweater with a 40-inch circumference on the 24-inch needles.

Schematic

The schematic is a drawing that shows the garment’s shape and key measurements. It helps you to visualize the finished garment and adjust fit as needed. The schematic should show measurements for the entire range of sizes in the pattern. You can quickly tell if the garment will fit by checking the size ranges in the schematic.

Charts or Graphs

Fair Isle, lace, and textured patterns can be graphically depicted, making the knitting much easier than reading through lines of text. Second, patterns that have been charted are much less likely to contain errors.

Pattern notes and Illustrations

Appreciate the designer who gives you a few tips and suggestions. These writers may be sharing advice from years of experience; appreciate them because their consideration will save you time and frustration. The instructions and accompanying illustrations should be easy to decipher.

Row by Row Instructions

School teachers know that some of us are visual learners, some rely on words. If you rely on row by row instructions and do not like to read charts, check through the pattern for the manner in which the directions are presented. Is it just a jumble of lines, all run together? If you don’t have the patience to transcribe these instructions into a more readable format, then move on to another pattern. Don’t choose something that is so overly complicated that you spend more time keeping your place than you do knitting. I found a vintage pattern for a feather and fan shawl that was written out over 186 rows – all in one long column. Pattern writing has come a long way since 1956!

Abbreviations

Whether in a book, pattern leaflet, or magazine, the abbreviations used in the pattern should be explained, either with the pattern or in another chapter. Many abbreviations are standard, but you will occasionally find instructions abbreviated in an unusual way; always check to be sure you are executing the technique properly. You can quickly assess the level of difficulty of the pattern if you review the list of abbreviations. Does it include techniques you have never tried? If so, are there many new terms or just a few? Does the pattern include a description and illustration of the technique?

Finishing Details

Before you invest in the pattern and yarn, check to see how the project is assembled or finished. Blocking, seaming and construction notes are important details. Compare the photograph to the finishing details to determine if you are really up for sewing on that lace border or knitting dozens of afghan squares, then sewing them together. If you’d still like to undertake the project but will need help in finishing, you can seek extra help by taking a class, getting help from your local yarn store, or finding a book and/or video from your local library.

Other Considerations

No matter how carefully patterns are written and edited, mistakes slip into publications. Some knitters claim they have never encountered a pattern that did not have some type of error or omission. Experienced knitters can often easily detect pattern errors, but it is a lot more efficient to check for errors before you start to knit. Checking for errata on published patterns is quite simple and generally surfaces errors you need to know about. Do an Internet search using “errata” along with the book or magazine title, pattern name, and publisher. Some publishers keep errata lists on their sites, or you may find a blogger or knitalong group that have posted information about the pattern you are considering.