Knitch Magazine

Stefan's Dinosaur Cardigan

Designed by Pat McDermott

Pattern Developed by Jennifer Penney

Skill Level: Intermediate to Experienced

PDFs of this pattern available below >

Materials

4 skeins MC1 Tahki Cotton Classic Dark Teal #3786 Jungle

3 skeins MC2 Tahki Cotton Classic Bright Teal #3783 Jungle

2 skeins MC3 Tahki Cotton Classic Light Teal #3814 Jungle

1 skein CC1 Tahki Cotton Classic Red Violet #3912 Stegosaurus

1 skein CC2 Tahki Cotton Classic True Blue #3839 Stegosaurus plate background

1 skein CC3 Tahki Cotton Classic Dark Royal #3873 Stegosaurus plates

1 skeins CC4 Tahki Cotton Classic Bright Lime #3726 Tyrannosaurus

2 skeins CC5 Tahki Cotton Classic Bright Yellow #3533 Apatosaurus

1 skein CC6 Tahki Cotton Classic Neon Orange #3486 Triceratops

Needles

US size 4, 29” circular needle (3.5 mm)

US size 6, 29” circular needle (4.0 mm)

US size 7, 29” circular needle (4.5 mm) (optional for French Weave sts)

US size 6 double pointed needles (4.0 mm)

Tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Stitch holders

4 size 5/8” buttons

Gauge: 30 sts to 4 inches over Ribbed Leaf pattern using US size 6 needles

24 sts to 4 inches over Stockinette Stitch using US size 6 needles

Finished Measurements (from test knit sweater): Fits 3-5 year olds

Chest: 30 inches

Sleeve length (cuff to bind-off edge): 10”

Bottom hem to shoulder: 14”

This child’s cardigan is worked back and forth in one piece on circular needles to the armholes. Upper back and upper front sections are worked one at a time and joined by a three-needle bind off. The design calls for both decorative color stitch patterns and intarsia, with appliquéd elements. Techniques used are intarsia (with multiple colors a row), slipped stitches, increasing and decreasing, twisted stitches, reading charts, and short row shaping.

The pattern incorporates multiple stitch patterns while also working intarsia. I strongly suggest working several of the stitch patterns (Ribbed Leaf, Triple Torch, and French Weave) in swatches prior to starting the sweater to get a good handle on how they work. I found that I needed to go up to a size 7 needle to work the French Weave, as the slipped sts noticeably tightened up the pattern.

You can download a PDF file of the pattern at the bottom of the page.

Abbreviations, Terms, and Techniques

k: knit

p: purl

st(s): stitch(es)

sl: slip stitch- slip a stitch from the left to the right needle without working a new stitch

dpn: double-pointed needle

wyib: with yarn in back- when slipping sts, hold working yarn at the back of slipped sts

wyif: with yarn in front- when slipping sts, hold working yarn in the front of slipped sts

WS: wrong side

RS: right side

knitwise: insert right needle into st as if to knit

purlwise: insert right needle into st as if to purl

m1: make 1, come under the running thread between st on the left needle and the new st just worked on the right needle from front to back and knit into the loop, creating an increase

ssk: slip slip knit

k2tog: knit two together

ssp: slip slip purl

p2tog: purl two together

s2kp: slip 2 sts knitwise, knit 1, pass sl sts over the knit st (centered double decrease)

KLRI: knit left raised increase: on the farside, insert tip of right needle into the purl nub below the first st on the left needle, lift st onto left needle and knit, then k1

KRRI: knit right raised increase: k1, then insert left needle under the second purl nub below the new st, then k this st through the back loop

LT: left twist- (from Barbara Walker’s A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns) with right hand needle behind left hand needle, skip one st and k the second st through the back loop, then insert right hand needle into the backs of both sts and k2tog through the back loop

RT: right twist- (from Barbara Walker’s A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns) k2tog, leaving sts on left hand needle, then insert right hand needle from the front between the two sts just knitted together and k the first st again, then slip both sts from the needle together

W&T: Wyib, sl next st as if to purl, wrap working yarn around st to the front of the work, return sl st to the left hand needle, turn work.

Chart Colors for the Jungle:

#3814 Light Teal

#3783 Bright Teal

#3786 Dark Teal

To maintain readability in the charts, the dinosaurs are only outlined in their respective colors. The actual dinosaurs on the sweater are worked completely in their respective color. Please reference the pattern and the yarn list for the dinosaur colors.

Stitch Patterns

1x1 Ribbing

Row 1 (RS): K2 (selvedge sts), *p1, k1* to last 3 sts, p1, k2 (selvedge sts)

Row 2 (WS):  P2 (selvedge sts), *k1, p1* to last 3 sts, k1, p2 (selvedge sts)

Repeat rows 1 and 2.

Ribbed Leaf: (multiple of 16 sts plus 1)

Row 1 (WS): Purl (repeat every WS row)

Row 2 (RS): K1, *LT, (RT) twice, k3, (LT) twice, RT, k1*; repeat from * to * to end

Row 4: K2, *LT, (RT) twice, k1, (LT) twice, RT, k3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2

Row 6: K1, *(LT) twice, RT, k3, LT, (RT) twice, k1*; repeat from * to * to end

Row 8: K2, *(LT) twice, RT, k1, LT, (RT) twice, k3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2

Row 10: K1, *(LT) 3 times, k3, (RT) 3 times, k1*; repeat from * to * to end

Row 12: K2, *(LT) 3 times, k1, (RT) 3 times, k3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2

Row 14: K1, *(LT) 3 times, k3, (RT) 3 times, k1*; repeat from * to * to end

Row 16: K2, *(LT) twice, RT, k1, LT, (RT) twice, k3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2

Row 18: K1, *(LT) twice, RT, k3, LT, (RT) twice, k1*; repeat from * to * to end

Row 20: K2, *LT, (RT) twice, k1, (LT) twice, RT, k3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2

Row 22: K1, *LT, (RT) twice, k3, (LT) twice, RT, k1*; repeat from * to * to end

Row 24: K2, *(RT) 3 times, k1, (LT) 3 times, k3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2

Row 26: K1, *(RT) 3 times, k3, (LT) 3 times, k1*; repeat from * to * to end

Row 28: K2, *(RT) 3 times, k1, (LT) 3 times, k3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2

Repeat rows 1-28.

Triple Torch: (multiple of 10 sts plus 3, worked in one or two colors; rows 1 and 2 are the leaf pattern, rows 3-8 are worked with the background color; rows 9-16 repeat rows 1-8 with sts offset to stagger the pattern)

Row 1 (RS): With MC2, knit

Row 2 (WS): With MC2, k1, k1 wrapping yarn twice around needle, *k3, k3 wrapping yarn twice for each st, k3, k1 wrapping yarn twice; repeat from * to last st, k1

(On the next row, drop all extra wraps as you slip the wrapped sts)

Row 3: With MC1, k1, sl 1 wyib, *k3, sl 3 wyib, k3, sl 1 wyib; repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 4: With MC1, p1, sl 1 wyif, *p3, sl 3 wyif, p3, sl 1 wyif; repeat from * to last st, p1

Row 5: With MC1, k1, sl 1 wyib, *k3, sl 3 wyib, k3, sl 1 wyib; repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 6: With MC1, p1, sl 1 wyif, *p3, sl 3 wyif, p3, sl 1 wyif; repeat from * to last st, p1

Row 7: With MC1, k1, sl 1 wyib, *k1, sl 2 wyib, drop the first st of the 3 sl sts off the needle to the front of work, sl the first 2 sts back to the left needle, pick up the dropped st and k it, k2, sl 1 wyib (the second of the 3 sl sts of the group), drop the next st (the third of the 3 sl sts) off needle to front of work, k2, pick up dropped st and k it; k1, sl 1 wyib; repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 8: With MC1, p1, *sl 1 wyif, p9*; repeat from * to last 2 sts, sl 1, p1

Row 9: With MC2, k

Row 10: With MC2, k1, k2 wrapping yarn twice around needle, *k3, k1 wrapping yarn twice around needle; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2 wrapping yarn twice around needle; k1

(On the next row, drop all extra wraps as you slip the wrapped sts)

Row 11: With MC1, k1, sl 2 wyib, *k3, sl 1 wyib, k3, sl 3 wyib; repeat from * to last 3 sts, sl 2 wyib, k1

Row 12: With MC1, p1, sl 2 wyif, *p3, sl 1 wyif, p3, sl 3 wyif; repeat from * to last 3 sts, sl 2 wyif, p1

Row 13: With MC1, k1, sl 2 wyib, *k3, sl 1 wyib, k3, sl 3 wyib; repeat from * to last 3 sts, sl 2 wyib, k1

Row 14: With MC1, p1, sl 2 wyif, *p3, sl 1 wyif, p3, sl 3 wyif; repeat from * to last 3 sts, sl 2 wyif, p1

Row 15: With MC1, k1, *sl 1 wyib, drop next sl st off needle to front of work, k2, pick up dropped st and k it, k1, sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 2 wyib, drop next sl st off needle to front of work, sl the first 2 sts back to left hand needle, pick up the dropped st and k it, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, sl 1 wyib, k1

Row 16: With MC1, p6, sl 1 wyif, *p9, sl 1 wyif; repeat from * to last 6 sts, p6

Repeat rows 1-16.

French Weave: (multiple of 4 sts plus 3, worked in 2 colors)- May need to increase needle size

Row 1 (RS): With MC3; K3, *sl 1 wyib, k3*, repeat from * to * to end

Row 2 (WS): With MC3; P across

Row 3: With MC2; K1, sl 1 wyif, k1, *sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to end

Row 4: With MC2; P3, *sl 1 wyif, p3*, repeat from * to * to end

Row 5: With MC3; K1, *sl 1 wyib, k3*, repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, sl 1 wyib, k1.

Row 6: With MC3; P across

Row 7: With MC2; K1, sl 1 wyib, k1, *sl 1 wyif, k1 sl 1 wyib, k1*, repeat from * to * to end

Row 8: With MC2; P1, *sl 1 wyif, p3*, repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, sl 1 wyif, p1

Raindrop Stitch: (worked in Stegosaurus)

K into next st in the row below, keeping original st on needle, then sl the new st onto the left needle and k it again, then k the original st, and pass the new st over it (one raindrop st worked).

Spot Stitch: (worked in Triceratops)

Row 1 (RS): Knit

Row 2 (WS): *K1, p1*; repeat from * to * to end

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: *P1, k1*; repeat from * to * to end

Repeat rows 1-4.

Sweater Body

Ribbing

Using size 4 circular needles and MC1, cast on 197 sts. The first two sts and last two sts are selvage sts (k on the RS and p on the WS). Work K1, P1 (1x1) ribbing as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K2 (selvage sts), *p1, k1* to last 3 sts, p1, k2

Row 2 (WS): P2, *k1, p1* to last 3 sts, k1, p2

Work rows 1 and 2 two more times, then row 1 once more (7 rows total). You should be ready to work a WS row. Switch to size 6 circular needles and purl one row.

Begin Body

Starting with Row 1, using MC1, begin working from Body Chart. The selvage sts are included in the chart. Row 1 correlates with Row 16 of the written Ribbed Leaf pattern.

Row 9: Begin the intarsia for the T-Rex and the Stegosaurus.

-T-Rex is worked in stockinette st (with some purled sts for body definition) in CC4.

-Stegosaurus is worked in stockinette st and the Raindrop st in CC1. Stegosaurus spike and plate background is worked in stockinette st in CC2.

Row 58: Begin the Triple Torch pattern. Use MC1 for rows 58-64 as indicated on chart. (The next repeat of the Triple Torch pattern uses MC1 and MC2 as described in the Stitch Pattern section). Row 58 on the chart correlates with Row 2 of the Triple Torch pattern in the Stitch Pattern section.

Row 65: Using MC2, knit across, working intarsia dinosaurs as charted.

Row 66: Using MC2, work Triple Torch pattern and intarsia dinosaurs as charted.

Row 67: Using MC1, continue Triple Torch pattern and intarsia dinosaurs as charted.

Row 73: Using MC2, knit across, working intarsia dinosaurs as charted.

Row 74: Using MC2, work Triple Torch pattern and intarsia dinosaurs as charted.

Row 75: Using MC2, continue Triple Torch pattern and intarsia dinosaurs as charted.

Row 78: Begin neck shaping as charted. Use k2tog or ssk on RS and ssp or p2tog on WS as charted.

Row 80: Decrease for armhole.

Row 81: Switch to MC2. Armhole bind-off row. Bind off 10 sts for each armhole as charted.

Place right front and back on spare needles or stitch holders. Continue pattern with left front as charted.

Left Front

Row 82: Decrease for armhole. Final repeat of Triple Torch pattern (worked entirely in MC2).

Row 83-90: Work entirely in MC2 as charted.

Row 91: Using MC3, begin French Weave pattern as charted.

Row 130: Begin short row shaping- work to 5 sts before end, W&T.

Row 131: Work row as charted.

Row 132: Work to 6 sts before previous wrapped st, W&T.

Row 133: Work row as charted.

Row 134: Work to 7 sts before previous wrapped st, W&T.

Row 135: Work row as charted.

Place remaining sts on stitch holder or spare needle.

Right Front

Row 82: Decrease for armhole. Final repeat of Triple Torch pattern (worked entirely in MC2).

Row 83-90: Work entirely in MC2 as charted.

Row 91: Using MC3, begin French Weave pattern as charted.

Row 131: Begin short row shaping- work to 5 sts before end, W&T.

Row 132: Work row as charted.

Row 133: Work to 7 sts before previous wrapped st, W&T.

Row 134: Work row as charted.

Row 135: Work to 7 sts before previous wrapped st, W&T.

Row 136: Work row as charted.

Place remaining sts on stitch holder or spare needle.

Back

Row 82: Decrease for armhole. Final repeat of Triple Torch pattern (worked entirely in MC2).

Row 83-90: Work entirely in MC2 as charted.

Row 87: Begin intarsia Apatosaurus (using CC5), worked in stockinette st.

Row 91: Using MC3, begin French Weave pattern as charted.

Row 127: Neck bind off row- BO 26 sts as charted. Place sts for Upper Right Back on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Upper Left Back

Row 131: Work to 5 sts before end, W&T.

Row 132: Work row as charted.

Row 133: Work to 7 sts before previous wrapped st, W&T.

Row 134: Work row as charted.

Row 135: Work to 7 sts before previous wrapped st, W&T.

Row 136: Work even.

Place remaining sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.

Upper Right Back

Row 131: Work to 5 sts before end, W&T.

Row 132: Work row as charted.

Row 133: Work to 7 sts before previous wrapped st, W&T.

Row 134: Work row as charted.

Row 135: Work to 7 sts before previous wrapped st, W&T.

Row 136: Work even.

Place remaining sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.

Sleeves

Right Sleeve: Triceratops

Using size 4 circular needles and MC1, cast on 49 sts. The first two sts and last two sts are selvage sts (k on the RS and p on the WS). Work K1, P1 (1x1) ribbing as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K2 (selvage sts), *p1, k1* to last 3 sts, p1, k2

Row 2 (WS): P2, *k1, p1* to last 3 sts, k1, p2

Work rows 1 and 2 two more times, then row 1 once more (7 rows total). You should be ready to work a WS row. Switch to size 6 circular needles and purl one row.

Begin Ribbed Leaf pattern as charted on Row 1 of the Right Sleeve chart.

Increases: I prefer to use raised increases (knitting into the purl nub of the st below), but you may substitute a m1 or other increase that you prefer.

Row 19: Using CC6, begin Triceratops intarsia. WS rows of the Triceratops use the Spot stitch pattern as charted (WS rows is a k1, p1 repeat which is offset every other WS row).

**Upper sleeve French Weave is worked differently than the cardigan body. The edge sts (approximately 6 sts on the left an dright side of the sleeve) are worked in the French Weave pattern entirely in MC2. The middle of the sleeve is worked in MC2 and MC3. You will need to work the edge sts in intarsia and carry the unused colors as you go. This extra intarsia will allow the colors from the sleeves to match the body when the sleeves are sewn in.

Row 92: BO off all sts.

Left Sleeve: Apatosaurus

Using size 4 circular needles and MC1, cast on 49 sts. The first two sts and last two sts are selvage sts (k on the RS and p on the WS). Work K1, P1 (1x1) ribbing as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K2 (selvage sts), *p1, k1* to last 3 sts, p1, k2

Row 2 (WS): P2, *k1, p1* to last 3 sts, k1, p2

Work rows 1 and 2 two more times, then row 1 once more (7 rows total). You should be ready to work a WS row. Switch to size 6 circular needles and purl one row.

Begin Ribbed Leaf pattern as charted on Row 1 of the Left Sleeve Chart.

Row 7: Using CC5, begin Apatosaurus intarsia pattern. The Apatosaurus is worked in stockinette stitch (with purled sts for body definition).

Row 92: BO off all sts.

Finishing Instructions

Lightly block body and sleeves prior to finishing.

Right Shoulder: Place the Upper Right Back and Right Front on spare needles. With RS facing each other, work a 3 needle bind off.

Left Shoulder: Place the Upper Left Back and Left Front on spare needles. With RS facing each other, work a 3 needle bind off.

Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams, taking care to line up the Triceratops properly.

Button Band:

Using US size 4 needles, with RS facing you and starting on the bottom hem of the Right Front, pick up and knit approximately 90 sts evenly spaced along Right Front to the shoulder seam. Pick up and knit approximately 10 sts along Upper Right Back, knit the 26 back neck sts off the spare needle/stitch holder, pick up and knit 10 more sts along Upper Left Back to shoulder seam, and approximately 90 sts from shoulder seam to Left Front hem. You should have approximately 226 sts total.

Row 1: (WS) Work k1, p1 rib to end.

Row 2: (RS) Work k1, p1 rib to end.

Row 3: P1, k1, p1, k1, p1, {k2tog, yo wrapping yarn twice, ssk, *k1, p1* 5 times}, repeat between { } 3 more times for a total of 4 buttonholes made along the Left Front button band. Continue in k1, p1 rib as established to end of row.

Row 4: Work in k1, p1 rib as established until the double-yo’s. K1, p1 into the double-yo to maintain the continuity of the ribbing.

Row 5: Work in k1, p1 rib as established.

Row 6: Work in k1, p1 rib as established.

Row 7: BO all sts in pattern.

Using the following colors, work a French Knot for the dinosaur eyes (approximate placement shown on the charts). Weave in ends using the “J” or fishhook method by catching a few threads of the purl bumps of two or three nearby sts. (See photo)

T-Rex: Use CC5, Bright Yellow

Stegosaurus: Use CC4, Bright Lime

Apatosaurus: Use CC3, Dark Royal

Triceratops: Use CC3, Dark Royal

Attach buttons to button band.

Following the next set of instructions, make 10 or 11 Stegosaurus spine plates and 3 i-cords for the tail spikes and attach as instructed.

Stegosaurus Spine Plates and Tail Spikes

Materials

CC3 Tahki Cotton Classic, Dark Royal #3873

US size 6 double pointed needles (4mm)

Size 16 tapestry needle

**When doing the m1, lift the running thread between the st just worked and the next st and k into it. Do NOT twist the new st to close the hole as you normally would with a m1.

Small Spine Plate: (make 4)

Using CC3 and size US 6 needles, cast on 3 sts, leaving at least a 6 inch tail.

Row 1 (WS): P3

Row 2 (RS): K1, m1, k1, m1, k1

Row 3: P5

Row 4: K5

Row 5: P5

Row 6: Ssk, k1, k2tog

Row 7: P3

Row 8: S2kp

Cut yarn, leaving at least a 6 inch tail. Pull tail through last stitch on needle to secure.

Medium Spine Plate: (make 4)

Using CC3 and size US 6 needles, cast on 3 sts, leaving at least a 6 inch tail

Row 1 (WS): P3

Row 2 (RS): K1, m1, k1, m1, k1

Row 3: P5

Row 4: K2, m1, k1, m1, k2

Row 5: P7

Row 6: K7

Row 7: P7

Row 8: K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1

Row 9: P5

Row 10: Ssk, k1, k2tog

Row 11: P3

Row 12: S2kp

Cut yarn, leaving at least a 6 inch tail. Pull tail through last stitch on needle to secure.

Large Spine Plate: (make 2 or 3)

Using CC3 and size US 6 needles, cast on 3 sts, leaving at least a 6 inch tail.

Row 1 (WS): P3

Row 2 (RS): K1, m1, k1, m1, k1

Row 3: P5

Row 4: K2, m1, k1, m1, k2

Row 5: P7

Row 6: K3, m1, k1, m1, k3

Row 7: P9

Row 8: K9

Row 9: P9

Row 10: K2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2

Row 11: P7

Row 12: K1, ssk, k1 k2tog, k1

Row 13: P5

Row 14: Ssk, k1, k2tog

Row 15: P3

Row 16: S2kp

Cut yarn, leaving at least a 6 inch tail. Pull tail through last stitch on needle to secure.

Spikes: (make 3 short i-cords)

Using CC3 and size US 6 needles, make a slip knot with a 6 inch tail and place on left dpn. K1, place newly-made knit stitch back on left needle next to the slip knot. K1 into the new stitch and place on left needle as before (3 sts cast on).

Row 1-8: K3, slide sts to other end of dpn (do not turn)

Row 9: K2tog, k1, slide sts to other end of dpn (do not turn)

Row 10: K2tog

Cut yarn, leaving at least a 6 inch tail. Pull tail through last stitch on needle to secure.

Finishing instructions

Attaching plates:

Place plates along back of stegosaurus, offsetting from intarsia plates. Use smallest plates closest to head and tail, and the larger plates on the middle of the back. Using a tapestry needle, pull beginning and ending yarn tails for each plate through the knitted fabric to the reverse side. Carefully catch a few threads of the purl bumps of two or three nearby sts. Make a “J” or “fishhook” shape as you weave in the yarn ends for security. (See photo for detail).

Attaching spikes:

Place spikes at end of tail to match the intarsia spikes. Using a tapestry needle, pull beginning and ending yarn tails for each spike through the knitted fabric to the reverse side. Carefully catch a few threads of the purl bumps of two or three nearby sts. Make a “J” or “fishhook” shape as you weave in the yarn ends for security.

Download PDFs of the written instructions,chart legend, body chart and sleeve chart for this pattern.