| You'll be watching Cable News from Paris |
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| Written by Deborah Knight | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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For this autumn's fashion season, the design geniuses at French fashion houses, Anny Blatt and Bouton D'Or, have created a collection inspired by the craggy coasts of Ireland and the majestic fjords of Norway. But they did it in a magnificently French style that brings a new interpretation to traditional cables. On Monday, May 9, 2011 yarn shop retailers from throughout France, Sweden, Russia, Czech Republic, Denmark — plus a few from the United States — gathered at Les Colombages for what was to be a spectacular presentation of brand new patterns and a few new yarns from the trend-setting designers of Anny Blatt and Bouton D'Or. We traveled to Paris to see what wonderful ideas await our readers when thoughts turn to winter warmwear. As we approached the loft where the fashion show was held, we could feel a sense of excitement in the air. Outside on the street, Jean-Christophe Tarazona, North American manager of the company, who was accompanied by his wife, spoke animatedly with Karin Testaniere the President of the French family-owned company. Jean-Christophe and Karin both knew that what their audience thought of the fashions they saw in the next few hours was critically important to their success. If we loved the yarns and designs, autumn 2011 would be an excellent year. But if we didn't...
The facility was a large, mostly empty building. Downstairs a little courtyard served as a comfortable meeting spot for attendees who were enjoying the unusually warm Parisian weather. We sipped orange juice and greeted one another, struggling to communicate in our very best "Franglish" that added a bit of a challenge to conversation. Some of us had met before, and all of us knew the inimitable Madame Gosse whose shop in Paris is magnificently popular, and whose events are talked about for weeks afterward. She buzzed through the crowd like a bee happily gliding from flower to flower, inviting guests to visit her shop while they were staying in Paris. It's a wonderful little place with colorful displays that are truly irresistible. After a short wait we were summoned upstairs to an expansive room with chairs surrounding a makeshift runway. It was tasteful but sparse...to ensure that all attention would be on the models and the clothing they presented.
The music lifted and we were treated to a parade of Bouton D'Or designs that were consistent with the theme of the line: classic, yet contemporary. Casual, but elegant. The models were just as you'd expect: very beautiful, very French. They strutted up and down the runway twice for each garment and, on occasion, stood obediently still when one of the attendees reached out to touch the item they were displaying. In Paris, it seems, fashion show attendees will actually stop the model to examine the garment. And on a few occasions that had to make Jean-Christophe and Karin ecstatic, a few burst into loud, spontaneous applause when they saw a piece they particularly appreciated.
Some of the models, we were told, came from the Lido, a famous Parisian nightclub where the dancers are provocatively outfitted in costumes that require a perfect — and perfectly slim — body. We chuckled to think how they must feel to be wrapped up in warm woolen clothes on this very warm spring afternoon. The audience, in summer wear, fanned ourselves for comfort while we admired angora, alpaca and other fibers intended for cooler, crisper autumn days. As mentioned previously, the big fashion news was cables...beautifully twisted, intricately woven patterns that would be challenging for the knitter and complementary to the person wearing the magnificent designs. The show began with Nova, a wide-ribbed, knee-length sweater with dramatically draped neckline, a creation in Bouton D'Or's fabulous Phenix yarn. The wide sleeves added to the effect of this perfect weekend piece. Wide, curve-hugging ribs were also seen in designs like the short sleeve Santana cardi, sexy but non-revealing Lara, and the Flores tunic that featured a big, rolling turtleneck. With classic patterns borrowed from Scandanavia, Bouton D'Or impressed us with the pretty Bahia shorty cardigan, Olney cardi with zig-zags and diamond shapes, and the more traditional looking Savoy pullover. The most eye-catching piece of Norwegian descent was the form-fitting Wanda blazer that was unlike any Nordic style we've seen: a fantastic fusion of modern shaping and traditional folk style.
First presented in the Olney cardi, diamonds were in our eyes on several occasions -- whether it was in texture, as in the Castro tunic, or in powerful plaids that featured bursts of brightness on more subtle backgrounds. The Cajati tunic, Vitoria cardigan, and breathtaking Cristal coat were glorious styles the audience enthusiastic endorsed. A few sporty items with classic v-necks and striping trim were also presented for those who are seeking timeless classics with a preppy feel. And then there were the cables...gorgeous knitted interpretations of an intricate design made famous in the Book of Kells and still popular today. From the chunky cables that made the Ibira sweater dress a hit, to the intriguing double-cabling of the marvelous Maria pullover, cables captured our attention. Whether they were embellished with ribbon, like the spectacular Rosa pullover, or arranged as elegant chains seen in the men's Vargas turtleneck, the cables made perfect use of Bouton D'Or yarns with masterful stitchery, contemporary color, and truly inventive design.
Overall, the shades for Bouton D'Or were subdued: earthy tones of beige and grey, heathery blues and greens. Bursts of bright pink added energy to the neutral palette to make it vibrant and modern. Several items were so striking that the audience clapped and cheered...much to the satisfaction of our hosts, Karin and Jean-Christophe. When the Bouton D'Or presentation was over, we were treated to a delicious selection of hors d'oeuvres that were quickly devoured by the enthusiastic crowd. Wine flowed almost as freely as the discussion of what design we'd liked best. With our tummies full and our appetites whetted for more, we gathered for the presentation of the Anny Blatt line for Autumn 2011.
One new yarn that really made a statement is Anny Blatt's Jalouse. This is a shaggy nylon yarn reminiscent of the 60s and Sonny Bono's wild vests. This fabulously thick and gorgeous fiber appeared as an accent in the Bruce, Jubliee and Kentish cardigans. What a clever way to add oomph to a collar or cuffs! But it was absolutely striking when used for an entire garment. The audience marveled at the full length Maida coat with its fluffy texture and stylish shape. We also loved the York and Isola vests and Sandy shawl that would make any outfit go from ordinary to absolutely extraordinary! The Seymour cape-shaped coat was also a show-stopper. But the real piéce de resistance was the flirty little Lindon skirt...but you'd have to be tall and thin as a rail to properly pull it off!
For those who love soft femininity, Anny Blatt did a magnificent job of showcasing their exquisite Absolu, Prestige Angora and Super Angora yarns. From the sweet simplicity of the Amory short sleeved pullover to the cosy comfort of the Coney and London sweaters — each with draping necklines that can double as a hood — we saw a variety of ingenious angora confections that any knitter would love to create...and cuddle up in. Not afraid of the most intricate patterns, the designers presented us with plaids that popped of brilliance, Nordic-inspired motifs, hounds tooth, leopard spots, and truly inventive striping. This is a company that loves to push the creative envelope and set, rather than follow, the styles.
Ribs returned in knee-length cardigans and pullovers, and used for trim on a draping coat with full, flowing rolled cuff sleeves. Then came another spectacular display of cables. The Easley tunic with contrasting collar and capped sleeves, and the curve-hugging Kenton with slightly puffed shoulders were pretty...but the Benty dress was an absolutely fabulous fashion with cables that elongated the body and a flattering A-line shape with bell sleeves. The elegant Steele coat combined the interest of cables with the softness of angora to create a garment you'd want to wear to the symphony or ballet. While every item we viewed had its own merits, none was more compelling than the magnificent Salome coat that featured elegantly thin and subtle horizontal striping as the foundation for a bold diagonal pattern. This is not a project for the faint of heart. But it's one that any knitter would be proud to complete...and even prouder to wear. The audience gasped as they examined the coat and fully grasped the intricate detail that created such a beautiful garment.
From huge, flowing collars and enormous cabled scarves to delicate, feminine pieces that enhanced the female shape, Anny Blatt presented a full palette of styles sure to please even the most discerning knitter. The colors were subdued: greys, heathery blues and green, and a couple of garments in brilliant aqua and pink to provide welcome brightness to somber winter days. The audience was delighted. Jean-Christophe and Karin were proud. And we left the presentation very happy. This autumn, Anny Blatt and Bouton D'Or will be making fashion news...and you'll be excited by their interesting and ingenious twist on cables.
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