| Purls of Wisdom: What's Wrong with this Pattern? |
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| Written by Barbara Rottman | |||
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Choosing a Pattern:
Knitting is intensely popular and that means a flood of new yarns along with knitting patterns to support them. With new designs, errors are as likely to be in the pattern itself as in mistakes by the knitter or the difference between “user error” and typographical errors. The written word is concrete, and we put our faith in it over our best instincts. Learning to distinguish knitting mistakes from pattern errors will save time and frustration.
Management gurus preach that the best way to avoid these dilemmas is to prevent error in the first place. Assuming you never make a mistake in your knitting and that you always stick with tried-and-true time-tested patterns with no known errors, your knitting could look just like everyone else’s. However, if you’re drawn to fashionable or newly published unique designs, you’re likely to encounter errors and should be prepared to deal with them. Einstein is not the author of the above quote, but he did say, “Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new.”
A word about pattern writing in general: just like recipes or any other instructional writing, knitting patterns are the designer’s best effort to explain how to duplicate their results. Some designers write in an individualized style, but most American knitting patterns use standard formats, abbreviations and terminology. Convention generally calls for a list of materials, equipment, recommended yarn and gauge, and a range of sizes. Schematic drawings that show garment dimensions are sometimes included for more clarity. Special stitch or pattern instructions often lead off the construction directions. These may be charted, written line-by-line, or both.
Now imagine you are the writer, editor, or proofreader who publishes said pattern. Think of all the opportunity for error in typos, dropped symbols, misspellings, and formatting problems. One dropped notation or misplaced symbol can be easily overlooked but cause hours of knitting headache. Most publishers do an extraordinary job of test-knitting and proof reading to wring out mistakes. However, the long lists of errata on publishers’ websites are proof that perfection is elusive. Some knitters insist that every pattern has some type of mistake. Others half-believe in gremlins that play tricks with words and symbols. Learning how to detect and remedy an error in the pattern is as critical a skill as learning how to un-knit a mistake in knitting.
Read over the pattern thoroughly before you purchase it to make sure you feel comfortable with the format. Here are just a few suggestions of what to look for in the pattern; you can add your own criteria according to your personal experiences:
Pattern-writing standards have developed in response to demands from picky knitters so that more recently published patterns are much easier to follow and understand than are vintage patterns from the 70’s or earlier. Some early patterns are little more than blocks of tiny print squeezed into a single magazine column. It is easy to modernize these patterns. Make a photocopy and use a highlighter pen to mark off sections. Draw a schematic and/or chart out the stitch pattern. With a little advance work, you will gain familiarity with the directions and will save time in the long run.
Finally, remember we all make mistakes and try not to expect perfection. Make it a habit to do a quick Internet search to look for known errata or corrections on a new pattern before you begin a new project.
Learn the Terminology
Knitting is a specialized language that uses shorthand terms to describe complex maneuvers. Before considering anything else, confirm that you interpreted the instructions correctly. For example, multiple steps of slip one, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over the two knitted stitches are abbreviated as SK2P. A knitter who confuses this maneuver with S2KP, or slip two stitches together, knit one, pass two slipped stitches over the knit stitch will get different results. If the stitch pattern is not working out, re-read, re-write or read aloud the pattern instruction to be certain you have it right. Sometimes the unconscious brain (or is it a gremlin?) continues to send the misinterpreted directions, causing your hands to continue repeating the same mistake. When this happens, set the knitting aside for a short break and go for a walk, do some stretching exercises, or do some other physical tasks to clear your short-term memory. The problem will disappear when you return to the knitting perhaps because the gremlin has gotten bored and moved on to another knitter.
Know Your Knitting
Knowing that mistakes can creep into even the most thoroughly tested patterns can help diagnose problems. A good understanding of knitting stitches and garment construction will help diagnose and correct problems when you encounter them. We know (and the pattern should tell us) that pattern stitches are repetitions of a set number of stitches over a set number of rows. In other words, simple ribbing is a multiple of 2 stitches repeated every two rows. More complicated stitches directions might require multiples of 12 plus 2 stitches repeated every 14 rows. In some patterns like lace edgings, the stitch count varies. Even though there are endless stitch combinations, you can detect errors by counting out the multiples and rows. Check for the proper number of stitches after each repeat and row. Add up the stitches in the pattern and compare the chart to the written instructions. Use markers to set off each set of pattern repeats in a row and learn to “read” your knitting. Learn to distinguish stitches on the needle from both right and wrong side. Be able to identify knit, purl, yarn over, SSK, K2tog, and other common stitch maneuvers. Most important, take the time to test knit a small swatch. It will help you learn the pattern and work out any problems before getting into the body of a project.
Know How Garments are Constructed It is also helpful to understand how the project is constructed. Schematics are very helpful but not every pattern includes them. If one is not available, consider drawing one yourself. It will help you understand the overall construction of your project. Compare the measurements in the schematic to the written instruction. For example, you may find that the crown height on the hat you are about to knit is displayed as 5 inches on the schematic but the written instruction tells you to knit to 13 inches. Which is it? Common sense tells you that 5 inches is correct, and the schematic confirms your instinctual guess. If there is no schematic with the pattern, you could consult one of the many universal pattern guides that show standard garment measurements. In this case, the error was introduced by a failure to convert metric measurements to the American system in the written instruction — it’s always a good idea to read both sides of the ruler!
Some garments are designed to showcase beautiful new yarns and the garments are knit to fit fashion models. The sizing changes may not yield a good fit for you. Pattern adjustments to require advance planning. For example, if you need to make the sleeve cap larger, you will also need to make the armhole a little deeper to accommodate the wider sleeve. It’s a good idea consult other resources to learn how to make these changes.
If you are not an encyclopedia of knitting knowledge, then acquire and become familiar with a few reliable references. There are hundreds of knitting books on the market, so take the time to look around to find one that is easy to understand. Use your local library to preview some of the dozens of books devoted to knitting technique before you purchase. Choose a reference book that uses illustrations, instructions and photographs that clarify but don’t confuse. You might prefer to bookmark helpful sites on the Internet. Many generous publishers, knitters and designers make videos and instructions available free; search until you find one that you can easily understand. Other online resources include knit-alongs, discussion groups, and interest groups devoted to a particular type of knitting like Aran knitting or lace. The moderators and members of these groups are very helpful and knowledgeable. If available in your area, join a knitting guild or group at your local yarn shop. Take a lesson or class offered by the guild, yarn shop, community center or technical college.
Make Notes Stop often as you knit to check your work. Use a critical eye just as you would in proof reading. I once knit a sweater that looked perfect until my son turned his back and walked away from me. Only then did I spot a section of misaligned Trinity stitch running across the shoulders. I missed it as I knit; was I seeing only what I expected to see? Make notes as you knit, including row counts and where patterns start and stop as this will help you match other pieces and it will assist you in diagnosing problems as they arise. Use these resources to puzzle out problems, but if something still seems wrong or unworkable, don’t hesitate to contact the publisher. Most offer contact information in the book or on the pattern, and in many cases the designer will contact you personally! Designers are as interested in correcting problems as are you, whether it is “user error” or a problem with the written instructions. Remember, to err is human but to forgive is within all of us.
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Most knitters have eagerly started a project only to be stymied somewhere between cast on and cast off by misunderstandings or mistakes in the pattern. The enthusiasm for new yarn and a cute pattern can instantly evaporate when problems are encountered. Once lost, interest is not easily rekindled, consigning the knitting to the scrapheap. The project lies hidden at the back of the closet, not ripped out but never completed; a grim reminder of lost potential — not to mention the wasted investment of time and money. When we have problems using new software on our computers, the problem is usually diagnosed as "user error." Likewise, when knitting doesn’t work out, we’ll spend hours reknitting only to get identical outcomes. If “insanity is doing the same thing over and over while expecting different results,” how can knitters maintain sanity?

