Knitch Magazine

Title:

Author: Wendy Bernard

Date Published: September 2011

Review Date: December 26, 2011

Who is this book for?

Custom Knits 2, from Wendy Bernard, pushes knitters further into customizing their knitting to a perfect fit and finish. Following on her bestselling Custom Knits, this book completes a master class in top-down knitting. It brings the genius of Barbara Walker and Elizabeth Zimmerman to modern day knitters in simple steps so well documented that even beginners will be able to complete the projects. Each chapter includes a selection of fashionable designs guaranteed to inspire even doubters of top-down knitting to give it a go. From the California-cool cover Zuma Tunic to the Favorite Hoodie, lacy Eyelet Cardigan and the quick to knit Flannel Jacket, the designs are fresh as the breeze blowing in from Big Sur. With guidance from Wendy, knitters will learn how to convert any pattern to fit men, women or children or to begin from scratch to design their own garments.

What Yarn Does it Feature?

The wonder of this book is that you can use any yarn, any gauge and any stitch pattern. Did you find a dreamy yarn in a sale bin but aren’t sure how far it will go? By starting at the top, you can try on as you go, checking for fit and yarn. Follow the advice on calculating for how much yarn you’ll need, and you can decide if you have enough yarn to knit a vest or a hoodie. Chapter 3, He Said She Said, shows you how to upsize or downsize a pattern to fit anyone in the family. Take your favorite pullover and make it a family affair.

What's Inside

In what might seem a compulsive planning style, Wendy kicks off with a short chapter on what to consider in pre-planning a project, beginning with the end in mind. It even includes a handy reproducible chart that triggers you to think about and record your decisions on necessary pattern adaptations. No matter how long that project may or may not sit in your knitting basket, you will have a record of what you planned to do, along with all calculations you need to finish. Each subsequent chapter begins with a tutorial to introduce the technique followed by a pattern that uses the technique. There are five chapters: Basic Training, He Said She Said, Tailored Raglans, Knitting Swaps, and Starting from Scratch. The catchy titles don’t obscure the content as much as you might think. The comprehensive chapter Knitting Swaps is packed full of information on how to convert stitch patterns to in-the-round knitting, how to turn stitch patterns upside down for top-down knitting, how to convert gauge, substitute yarn, and convert bottom-up pieced patterns to circular knitting. Whew! It’s all followed by detailed instructions for three sweaters, a beret, hats, and a shrug, each with several improvisations.

Sprinkled throughout the book are “Make it Your Own” boxes that show you how to look closely at the pattern, the design elements and consider the changes you might make. In one case, Wendy transforms the sexy Staghorn top into a classic V-neck men’s vest. She doesn’t just throw out and idea and leave you to flounder, but thoroughly discusses each step and provides cross-references to critical instructions elsewhere in the book. Other tips for customization include suggestions on adding collars or hoods, changing necklines and adding or reducing ease.

In the final chapter, Custom Knits 2 concludes with formulas for making garments without a pattern, using only body measurements as a guide—a graduation of sorts for adventurous knitters.

Using It

Custom Knits 2 is filled with helpful information that will make you a better knitter, and it deserves a front to back read several times over. Close readers will find several variations on a theme, proving the point that you can adapt a basic pattern many times over. If you have never knit top-down projects, you may want to start with one of the small projects like hats, shrugs or children’s garments.

Best Advice

Beginning with the end in mind using top-down techniques and careful preplanning, Wendy Bernard encourages knitters to knit with confidence and use patterns as a guide, not hard and fast rules. As Elizabeth Zimmermann said, you are the boss of your knitting. Custom Knits 2 gives you the skills you need to personalize and adjust to fit. You will learn how to adapt and adjust any pattern to get the results you want.

Recommendation

With Custom Knits 2, you can expand your skills to more fully understand pattern design and garment construction. You will be able to take charge of your knitting in ways you may not have thought you could, correcting for fit and adding design elements that suit your taste and body. You can stop the search for the “perfect pattern” and make the changes you envision. While you’re at it, you may want to obtain a copy of the original Custom Knits for a complete introduction to top-down knitting.

Overall Recommendation

Knitters who want a deep understanding of their craft will want to invest in this excellent resource. It rates #10 with me.