Knitch Magazine

Yarn Name: Filatura Di Crosa Fancy Operadarte
Review Date: March 30, 2011
Date Introduced to Market: Fall 2010

Zara and Operadarte Jacket

Ruffled Wrap

The Look

Operadarte is another eye-catching addition to the collection of un-yarns that are popping up all around the yarn world. From Filatura Di Crosa, this woven ribbon yarn is soft and stretchy. It features a mohair picot trim on one edge with a laddered edge opposite. Soft pastel colors are trimmed in naughty black; Operadarte could easily be confused with exotic lace trim for French lingerie. At ¾-inches wide (2 cm), it knits up to a very loose gauge of 10 stitches over 4 inches. It can be knit alone or carried with another strand of yarn. The mohair picot edge creates self-ruffling fabric destined for fashionable accessories and dramatic accents on romantically feminine fashions.

The Feel

This flat ribbon yarn has one straight woven edge and one mohair-trimmed picot edge, but no sharp edges whatsoever. It is soft, light weight and very soft. Operdarte rates #9 on the softness scale.

Softness Scale

The Patterns

Your brain may momentarily freeze up as you consider how you might use this interesting and luxurious yarn. Your mind will race through its private pattern index, but find nothing to match Operadarte. Filatura Di Crosa presents a collection of 11 dreamy sweaters, wraps and accessories to knit featuring self-ruffling Operadarte yarn. Start here for inspiration and suggestions on how to knit with this specialty yarn.

Color Range

Operadarte is available in 6 bright shades.

Working It

Operadarte can be used as a single strand of yarn similar to other ribbon or ladder yarns. However, for the full ruffled effect, carry Operadarte along with another strand of yarn. To create dramatic self-ruffling fabric, pick up Operadarte with the tip of the needle inserted into one of the square ladders and knit it together with the main yarn. The pick-up is made in each stitch in the ruffle row, inserting the needle into every other ladder, creating an evenly shirred row of ruffles. The process is laborious and slow, since it is important to catch both Operadarte and the main yarn without dropping either in each stitch. You must count every other eyelet for pick-up while keeping Operadarte flat so that the needle always goes through the eyelet from the same side of the ribbon. Be careful not to snag your needle in the fine mohair picot edge, as you can break or stretch the mohair. Avoid this problem by using a needle that is long enough to accommodate the stitches without crushing them together. You will be less likely to run the needle through one of the picot loops if the stitches are not compacted into a bunch. For these reasons, Operadarte is probably not a good yarn choice for beginners. My best advice: don’t knit with this yarn unless you are relaxed and have plenty of time to finish the ruffle rows.

Although Operadarte is packaged as an unwound skein, I advise against winding it into a ball, as this will only increase the twist as you knit. If you drop the skein over a straight back chair, you can probably knit direct from the unwound skein. If you don’t have a spare chair to enlist for the duration of your project, you can carefully wrap the strips of Operadarte around a wide piece of cardboard. The yarn is less likely to twist as you knit and unwrap the yarn.

Your labor will be rewarded with sweet, soft and consistently even ruffles. The yarn is whisper light, so multiple rows of ruffles won’t add weight. There’s no need to fear drooping or dragging by several rows of Operadarte ruffles.

What I’d Like to Make with It

Use Operadarte to create feminine flourishes on a garment, trim or accessory. Tahki/Stacy Charles offers a free shawl pattern using 1 ball of Operadarte and 1 ball of Superior, a silk and cashmere blend in fingering weight. It is knit starting with the bottom ruffle and worked ever smaller as it is decreased toward the neckline. Use Operadarte to add double rows of ruffles along the swingy wide edge and shoulder. This simple but stunning shoulder shawl is a good accent piece for evening and summer needs.

Knitting Outside the Box

This dramatic yarn is attention-getting, and a few rows of ruffles are all that are needed to accent most garments. Trim the neckline or bottom of a tank top in ruffled lace or add rows of ruffles to any scarf, shawl, or handbag. Knit a bridal garter using Operadarte. Try adding several ruffled rows to the brim of a baby cap or on the back of a pair of fancy soaker pants. Baby would be cute in black and white for an out of the ordinary “tuxedo” look.

Blocking It

Lay flat to dry. Do not apply heat.

Washing It

Hand wash in cool water. May be dry cleaned.

Wearability

The thin mohair picot edge is not as fragile as it looks, but it can nevertheless catch on jewelry or random objects. Be careful of snags and always unwind the yarn gently to avoid breaking the continuous strand of mohair.

Overall Recommendation:

Operadarte is unique, fun and attention-getting. I rate it #7. Knitting with this unusual yarn is a bit fussy and slow, but the results are unlike anything else you can achieve with everyday yarns.